LONG BEACH TOWNSHIP — Just south of the last million-dollar home on Long Beach Island, past a parking lot, sits the Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge, two-and-a-half miles of sand and scrub undisturbed by man but tormented by the ocean.
The undeveloped beaches here offer visitors a glimpse of what this island may have looked like before whalers began settling the island in the late 1600s.
The refuge shares another similarity with the pre-development days: no government-sponsored beach-replenishment projects. While the rest of the 18-mile long island is eligible for sand under a $75 million U.S. Army Corps of Engineers beachfill project, the refuge here is off-limits to such aid.
Fishermen and local officials worry that all that the refuge in Holgate is slowly being swept away by the Atlantic Ocean.
“It’s slowly eroding. There are only 75 or 100 feet of sand left where there were big dunes,” said Stu Duenkel, 68, of West Avenue in Beach Haven, who visits the area daily.
Duenkel said the erosion became noticeable six or eight years ago and has started to escalate. Last year, a northeaster drove surf high up and over the island, causing a breach near the refuge’s midpoint as the Atlantic Ocean and Barnegat Bay met.
The breach was eventually filled, but will likely happen again the next time a powerful storm creates the same conditions. Meanwhile, the erosion continues.
Far from asking for help, refuge managers say the refuge reflects nature’s way — as well as the government’s hands-off approach when it comes to federal lands.
The federal Wilderness Act prohibits any beach-replenishment at the refuge.
“It’s a barrier island and it’s very dynamic and it is moving. We’ll go out there one day in the winter and the sand is taken away and there’s nowhere to walk and then a few days later the sand is back,” said Brian Braudis, deputy refuge manager.
The federal government has designated the refuge as wilderness, which must remain undeveloped and untouched by man. U.S. Fish and Wildlife officials have said it is against the law for the agency to bring any wheeled vehicles onto the refuge or replenish or move sand here, although beach driving is permitted along the oceanfront.
The Holgate portion of the Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge is made up of more than 400 acres of dunes, barrier beach and tidal salt marsh. The area is home to piping plovers, ospreys, black ducks, American oystercatchers, willets, seaside sparrows and more than 50 other bird species.
Duenkel said he doesn’t believe the government will get involved in saving Holgate because not enough people care to make it a political issue.
“There’s nothing here to protect except a spit of land and it’s a bird habitat. Nothing is going to get done — it’s like an ant battling Goliath — it doesn’t really benefit anyone except a few fishermen,” he said.
But local fishermen aren’t going to let the tip of the island disappear without at least trying to save it.
“This is the only area where people can see what LBI once was — when it was completely undeveloped and now it’s going to disappear. What other township in New Jersey is losing two-and-a-quarter miles of its terrain?” fisherman and local newspaper editor Jay Mann said.
Mann, of Ship Bottom, writes Jay Mann Today, a daily fishing and outdoor report/blog, and has been writing about the island’s erosion, his dispatches growing increasingly alarming.
“We’ve seen Holgate break before during the 1920s, but we’ve never seen it just disappear like this. The area is eroding unilaterally. It’s being eaten away from north to south and that’s never happened,” Mann said.
According to Mann, although the entire front beach area of Holgate is being eaten away, the Osprey Nest area is suffering worst from terminal erosion. The Osprey Nest area serves as a landmark for local fishermen and serves as a midway marker for fishermen. The nest itself is no longer there, a victim of a previous storm.
Mann said he projects that the next really big storm will create an ocean-to-bay gash right in that area.
“It won’t be a 24/7 inlet but, instead, will become a veritable walkway from ocean to bay, possibly holding water during all higher tides,” he said.
According to Mann, seemingly no one, aside from some diehard Holgate residents, realizes that more than 200 hundred yards of uplands at the Osprey Nest have disappeared in the past 15 years.
But that’s not entirely true. U.S. Rep. John Adler said he’s seen photographs of the erosion in the refuge and he’s worried.
“It’s my job as the representative of Holgate and the island to amend the act narrowly so Holgate stays a vital part of LBI,” said Adler, who is running against Republican Jon Runyan in the November election.
Adler said he’s in favor of amending the Federal Wilderness Act to allow the government to replenish the beaches in the refuge.
But until that happens, the area will have to survive as it has in the past.
“The refuge is designated by Congress as a wilderness area and we will follow the wilderness law. If Congress wants to create a special stipulation for that they can, but I don’t think they have a lot of time for that,” said Braudis.
Donna Weaver